Homey Maloney's
Maloney's of Margate will make you feel at home

By Sandy Posnak

MALONEY'S OF MARGATE is to restaurants what comfort food is to cuisine: it feels so homey there. The restaurant's first floor has a large bar decorated with glass pieces salvaged from the Mexican Pavilion of the 1964 New York World's Fair. Tables line dining areas adjacent to the bar. A second floor dining room has some historical significance, too: its large, decorative dome-shaped light fixtures once graced the ceiling of the former Breaker's Hotel in Atlantic City. Ornate mirrors and other artifacts throughout Maloney's adorned the walls of some of the shore's most elegant hotels, including the Traymore and the Chalfonte.

When we arrived at Maloney's recently and asked to be seated in a non-smoking area, the hostess told us, "Smoking is permitted in all areas since Maloney's is a bar." Nonetheless, we were not bothered by the occasional smoker, and were perfectly content with our table in a narrow, second floor window-lined dining room overlooking Washington Avenue. It's a cozy room decorated with little more than a few antique paintings and Tiffany-style lamps. On this night it also proved to be the ideal spot to observe the formation of dark, foreboding clouds and a subsequent heavy downpour. Since we were in no hurry, we relaxed over dinner and dessert while waiting out the storm.

The motto at Maloney's is "Great food is our business!" and Maloney's indeed does place great emphasis on its food preparation. Maloney's specializes in steaks and seafood, but its menu embraces a selection of chicken, veal and pork dishes, too. The chef also prepares an eclectic array of daily specials. Dinners are priced within reason and entrées include soup or salad and a choice of linguini or a potato and a fresh veggie.

Baked escargot, barbecue baby back ribs, Cajun shrimp, sautéed clams, fried smoked salmon, and pork and veggie fried dumplings are among the appetizers. They range in price from $5 to $8.50. Maloney's is known for its large portions, so dining partner Dan and I decided to skip the appetizers. He opted to start with a bowl of homemade chicken escarole soup. It had a heaping amount of chicken and truly tasted homemade. My house salad was served in a dish piled high with crispy lettuce, tomatoes, red and green peppers and cheese.

Dan perused the seafood portion of the menu and decided that he was in the mood for shrimp. Although the menu included shrimp served parmesan, fried or scampi style, his request for broiled shrimp was deemed to be no problem. He was served seven large shrimp which were succulent and broiled just right. After eating five of them he mentioned that he was filled, but managed to polish off the remaining shrimp along with the baked potato and fresh broccoli and cauliflower that accompanied his dish.

For me it was a tossup between the almond crusted tilapia filet with an amaretto buerre blanc ($18; one of the dinner specials) and a 14-ounce New York strip steak ($18.95). The steak won out. It was prepared well-done as ordered, but was still tender and juicy. A large, fluffy Idaho potato and applesauce coupled nicely with the steak. Other entrée choices on the menu included linguini with clams ($10.50), penne à la vodka with shrimp ($16.50), veal picata ($17), Maloney's 'no filler' crabcake ($19.95), lobster tail (market price), grilled chicken breast ($14) and pork chops ($12.75). Among the evening's specials were dijon herb roasted rack of lamb over mushroom potato risotto ($22) and half roast duck with fresh blackberry brandy sauce ($18.50).

Our meals were great, the service friendly. The only flaw: our table wasn't completely cleared of dirty dishes prior to our being served coffee and dessert. However, this didn't mar the taste of the chocolate raspberry torte ($5.50) that rated cheers from a couple of confirmed chocoholics.

Maloney's proprietor, George Naame, Jr., was born and raised in the shore area, and at one time worked as a lifeguard. His food and beverage experience dates back to the '60s when he operated the Lafayette Lounge in Atlantic City, and later the Elbow Room which drew crowds of rock and roll fans. He opened Maloney's of Margate in 1970, and began serving complete meals here 10 years later. An affable chap, Naame addresses "regulars" by name and has a special knack for making new customers feel welcome. He has earned accolades for his sponsorship and active involvement in numerous fundraisers. Naame's children Damon, George III and Renee all play essential roles in the business operation.

Maloney's of Margate, 23 Washington Avenue, Margate. Hours: Open 7 days a week. Lunch served from 11am to 3pm; dinner served from 5pm to 11pm; breakfast available on weekends; bar open 'til 4am. Nice wine list; late night menu; gourmet burger menu. Entertainment Thursday-Sunday; catering available. Note: credit cards are not accepted, but an ATM machine is available. Phone 823-7858.

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